Tuesday, November 23, 2010

How would you change the running direction of a Universal motor running on AC?

i salvaged a 1.6kw motor from a vacuum cleaner-wishing to make it into a blower but i want to use the impeller as a propeller- i can do this by changing the running direction of the motor

however i do not know how to do this-there are two wires leading to the motor brown and blue these wires are also connected to a capacitor in Parallel they lead straight from the plug

i have tried disconnecting the capacitor to see if i can hand start the motor in the opposite direction-however even when the capacitor is disconnected the motor still runs in the same direction

there are no more wires coming out of the motor and the 2 brushes are connected to the field wires(the electromagnets around the armature)- can the direction of the motor be changedHow would you change the running direction of a Universal motor running on AC?Universal motors are usually series connected, meaning the armature and field are in series. You have to reverse the connections ro one of them, the armature or the field.



The wiring will look like supply active, field in, field out, brush in (to armature), brush out, supply return. The capacitor is a electrical noise suppressor, just connected across the supply, or sometimes across the brushes.



If it is shunt wound as you seem to describe (meaning the field is across the supply and so is the armature) then the solution is still the same, reverse one of them.

Man's greatest invention hand's down no question!?

As we near the end of the first month of the new millennium, I have begun to ponder many things that until now have been taken for granted. As explosions of thought permeate my cerebrum, I find that I just must write! Anyway, here we are in the Year of our Lord, 2000, and computers and the Internet seem to be taking over the world. Everybody everywhere is trying to sell us something. We have: e-bays, e-commerce, e-links, e-mags, e-mails, e-malls, e-quests, and even e-zines! The old saying used to be, %26quot;The Ayes have it!%26quot; Now, it seems that the E檚 have it.





GIMME AN %26quot;E%26quot; !!!





At the risk of sounding stupid, I guess the E stands for electronic, huh? So naturally, many, if not most of you, would quickly answer the question posed in my title by saying, %26quot;that檚 easy . . . the computer is man檚 greatest invention.%26quot; Right? . . . WRONG !!! %26quot;How so?%26quot; You may ask. Well, inside just about every computer, there exists a little device whose function is to %26quot;cool%26quot; it; otherwise, it would over-heat and %26quot;CRASH!%26quot; Then where would we all be, if all the computers in the world simply could not function?



%26quot;Oh, abacus, abacus, wherefore art thou, abacus?%26quot;



Next, consider all the buildings in the world, both residential and commercial. What if all the furnaces, boilers, fans, and air conditioners simply could not work because of the absence of this same device? We would certainly be very uncomfortable most of the time, correct? Our entire environment would be drastically changed for the worse.



What if all the: automobiles, trucks, planes, trains, boats and ships would not work, for lack of this device? Transportation of people, products, and services would cease and desist! It would be kind of difficult, to say the least, for you to even acquire that %26quot;almighty%26quot; computer, wouldn檛 it? And even if you foot-peddled your little tri-cycle somewhere and back to haul your little e-Wonder home, guess what? It would still over-heat and CRASH! Oh, yes, lest I be remiss, let us not forget all the: washing machines, driers, refrigerators, freezers, turn-tables, printers, fax machines, blenders, power tools, and every other mother-lovin?appliance on the earth . . . none of them would work either!



By now you have gotten the picture, and know this %26quot;mad-man檚%26quot; answer, right? Is it: a micro-chip, a transistor, a diode, a capacitor, a voltage regulator, a generator, an alternator, or some other Electronic thing-a-ma-gig? NOPE! In my old 1953 edition of Webster檚 New World Dictionary of The American Language, on page 961, it is defined as follows:

















motor - n. 1. anything that produces or imparts motion. 2. an engine; especially, an internal-combustion engine for propelling a vehicle. 3. a vehicle propelled by an engine; especially, a motorcar; automobile. 4. in electricity, a machine for converting electrical energy into mechanical energy.









So, there you have it, my contention is that the lowly motor is man檚 greatest invention, merely because it has such a wide-spread influence over just about every other machine that was ever invented.. Practically every vehicle, ever manufactured anywhere needs a %26quot;starter motor%26quot; to engage the engine, in order to overcome inertia, whether it is internal combustion, gasoline powered, diesel powered, or even turbine powered. Every cooling or heating device which utilizes a fan, whether a propeller, or impeller, needs a motor to turn the shaft which spins the fan. While the greater majority of heating systems may be forced hot air, and utilize such a fan motor, even older homes like our 65-year-old hot water radiator system must have a circulating pump to force the hot water throughout the house. This pump is powered by an electric motor.





Q.E.D. : No motor = no motion . . .

No motion = no nuttin?= Nuttin?Honey!



As the sun sets in the west, and I bid you adieu, a startling revelation comes to mind. Namely, just what powers these great gadgets we call motors? Er, ah, well, um, you see, I guess it would be . . . electricity, huh?



Now we all know the story of the great inventor, Benjamin Franklin and his kite experiment, correct? Well, suffice it to say that he did not invent electricity, he just discovered it. So, while we may not know exactly who invented the greatest invention of man-kind, the motor (or so I say), maybe we can still give Ben three %26quot;thumbs?up%26quot; and a %26quot;double jiggle%26quot; for his efforts, because without electricity, we檇 be in a real peck of trouble. But that檚 another story, for another day!Man's greatest invention hand's down no question!?The wheel was probably the greatest invention. No wheel, no motor. It's May 10, 2007 A.D., by the way.Man's greatest invention hand's down no question!?easy opening beer cans Gee guy had had 3 just reading..Man's greatest invention hand's down no question!?Your question is too long and rambling so I believe that the best invention would be a stright jacket for youMan's greatest invention hand's down no question!?Sorry, but electricity and its progeny take a back seat to plumbing.



I daresay that had indoor plumbing never been invented, the world would be a much less pleasant place to be.



If you've never experienced not having running water, and don't know what an %26quot;outhouse%26quot; is, you're simply unqualified to rank anything else as the most important invention. If the astronauts that went to the Moon ever said they missed anything more, I'd call them liars.



Sorry, but the toilet is the greatest invention of all time, and I doubt that will ever change. Sliced bread? Don't make me laugh.
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  • Where does the power increase come from by increasing frequency from 50 to 60hz?

    http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/affinity-laws-d_408.html

    in this link we can see on the graph that the increase in speed of a pump's impeller causes the pump to 'push' a liquid with more power at a higher pressure..

    now when you change the current frequency of a pump from 50 to 60 the speed increases by 20% so this would mean according to the graph that the pump will push with more power..this means that this increase of power is coming from the motor driving the impeller...how does the increase in frequency cause an increase in power consumption by the motor? does it make it pull more current from its ource or a higher voltage? i know power=lVcos0(frequency is not in the formula)..Where does the power increase come from by increasing frequency from 50 to 60hz?Notwithstanding the rambling and rather academic dissertation by HASD, who seems not to have read the question, the situation is quite simple.



    Assuming, as would often (but not always) be the case, that a motor can still operate normally and safely at the higher speed (60 Hz), then it would react fully automatically to any increase in its torque (as applied by the load) by simply drawing more current from its supply. As you correctly remark, frequency doesn't come into it. What the frequency basically does is determine the speed.



    A motor itself is not able to alter the voltage with which it is supplied so its reaction is confined to drawing more current as its torque increases. It is the user who has to provide a suitable voltage for the motor and although most motors might work well at 60Hz on the same voltage as at 50, the ideal voltage would usually be higher by about 20%. If the user makes some or all of the voltage change, then the current change demanded by the motor will be correspondingly less.



    I take the opportunity to recommend Alfonso to go back to school for while! There's an awful lot about electricity that he hasn't grasped very well. Meanwhile humanity would be better served by his silence.Where does the power increase come from by increasing frequency from 50 to 60hz?Uh.... No.

    20% increase, must be living in dreamland. the example shows a 10% increase, and there's nothing in that link about increasing frequency.

    If the frequency goes up to 60HZ it also means an increase in power being supplied to the motor, because the electricity is arriving more rapidly than before.

    The power is averaged out instead of using peak voltage,so if power comes in more rapidly the averages will be higher.It's higher because less time is spent at zero and the peaks are coming in more frequently. it's kinda hard to show this without an example if a sine wave.

    AN increase in power speeds up the motors turning rate, which gives more horsepower (voltage and current rates are moot points, they are both higher).Where does the power increase come from by increasing frequency from 50 to 60hz?The link you posted only seems to mention the obvious, namely the faster you turn the pump, the more power that must be used.



    Now, what is NOT mentioned in the link is what is driving the pump. It could be a hand crank, a gasoline-powered engine, or an electric motor.



    So... you seem to be interested in the case of driving the pump with an electric motor. Furthermore, you mention 50Hz vs 60Hz, which implies you are dealing with an AC system.



    AC motors work by creating a rotating magnetic field in the stator. By switching from 50Hz to 60Hz, you are making this field turn faster.



    If you use a synchronous AC motor (which is not common), then the motor MUST keep up with the rotating magnetic field (or the motor would quickly burn out).



    On the other hand, it you use an AC induction motor (more common), the rotor is free to slip relative to the rotating magietic field, so (depending on the load), the switch from 50Hz to 60Hz may not change the speed much at all. If the load is very light then it will change by the 20% you mentioned.



    An AC motor running at no-load is not really using much power at all even though it is spinning rapidly. As the load is increased (as will occur in the case of your pump), then the induced magnetic field in the rotor slips relative to the rotating field of the stator. It is the phase difference between the two that defines how much power is consumed (ignoring the losses due to the resistive component of the motor coils and magnetic hysterisis).

    I can't figure out how to drop the lower unit on a 1972 Mercury 1500(150HP) outboard. PLEASE PLEASE help!?

    1)Do I have to disconnect any transmission cable or anything by the motor? If so, how?

    2) How many bolts to I unscrew from the lower unit near the propeller?

    3) Is there anything else that I should know?

    Reason for dropping the lower unit is because I just bought this boat and I'm changing all the fluids, spark plugs, and water impeller. And by any chance you know what water impeller I need will help me too since I can't find it in the owners manual.

    Thank you allI can't figure out how to drop the lower unit on a 1972 Mercury 1500(150HP) outboard. PLEASE PLEASE help!?Above post describes how to remove.

    When replacing the lower, the shift shaft (Splined shaft in front of main shaft) must be put back the way it came off otherwise you can have a shift problem.

    Put the throttle lever in neutral, turn the splined shaft on the lower so it is in the middle of it`s range (the prop must turn free so not in fw or rev gear) and the splines should align ok just before placing the lower back up. Dont forget the quad shaped O ring on the oil passage between the two halves!

    Refill the oil from bottom up till it floods out the vent plug and use new seal washers.

    FrankI can't figure out how to drop the lower unit on a 1972 Mercury 1500(150HP) outboard. PLEASE PLEASE help!?you can view your parts catalogue and engine schematic diagrams online at http://www.ishopmarine.com



    the shift rod has to be disconnected. not sure where it is on that motor. on most engines of that size %26amp; vintage, it's under the bottom carburetor.



    four retaining bolts, there might one more above the propeller, and there might even be one hidden under the torque tab. Score a line across it so you can get it back like it was.



    put anti-sieze or similar on the retaining bolts when you reinstall, to prevent them getting froze up on there for next time. I use OMC gasket sealing compound.



    put molly lube on the drive shaft splines, same reason.I can't figure out how to drop the lower unit on a 1972 Mercury 1500(150HP) outboard. PLEASE PLEASE help!?No need to panic,it's really not that hard.

    1)Shift into forward gear.

    2)There are 7 bolts to remove.First remove your trim tab.

    There is a plug on the top of the drive unit and when you pop it out,down inside there is either a 5/16 or 3/8 Allen head bolt.

    3)After you have removed it look up under the trim tab and you will see another Allen bolt.Remove it next.

    4)On the underside just back a little from the last bolt there are 2 5/8 nuts to remove.

    5)At the rear you will see two more 5/8 nuts to remove.After removing these there is one more back a little farther just up a little.Once you have removed the last nut it is ready to come off.It may be stuck on a little,so the easiest way to make it drop is to use a screw driver and pry down on the 2 nuts on the rear as you will have noticed that they would not come off all the way yet.The part number for your Impeller is 47-89984.

    Hope this helps.

    Questions about using Sand as Substrate in my Fish tank...?

    I have a Jack Dempsey cichlid and if you know anything about them you know they like to dig. Right now I have regular colored gravel in my tank but I want to change it out and replace it with sand.



    Here is the problem, I was given some gravel/sand mixed substrate but I had to change it out because the sand kept jamming up my impeller in my emperor hang on back filters.Is there a larger,heavier type sand that wont suck up into my filters I can use?How do you keep sand clean? Are you supposed to vacuum sand like you do gravel?



    Here are my questions:



    1. What is the best kind of sand can I buy that wont make my HOB filter stop constantly?



    2. Where can I buy it?



    3. Can you have snails in your tank if your substrate is stickily sand?(will it harm them?)



    4. Will I lose all my beneficial bacteria if I change my gravel to sand?



    Any help or advice would be great.I think sand looks better and I would like my JD to be able to dig without getting his face all jacked up.



    Thanks folksQuestions about using Sand as Substrate in my Fish tank...?1 - Pool filter sand



    2 - A pool supply store. It's cheap.



    3 - They'll be fine with the sand. Whether they'll be fine with the Dempsey may be a bit different...



    4 - You'll loose a good number of them. If you want, bag a bunch of it in a nylon stocking, and leave it in the tank for a while. Putting a small pump or powerhead blowing through it will help, too. But really, you should be able to switch it out without too much of a problem. Just monitor ammonia, just in case, and be prepared to intervene with water changes.Questions about using Sand as Substrate in my Fish tank...?Sand is not a good idea unless you have fish that stay on the top of the water, and even then, it is liely to get in your filter. Also, if you have cichlids that dig, and more than half of them do, they will get neurotic trying to constantly clear their territorial areas of sand, or just give up and become maladjusted.



    Snails can adjust to sand. there are far more snails in the ocean than in fish tanks.



    As far as your bacteria are concered, I would put some of the sand inside a stocking mesh securely tied at the top and leave it there until your tank recycles.Questions about using Sand as Substrate in my Fish tank...?I tried to help below but this will help more than I could: http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/sa



    1. Try to find large grain sands. The grains aren't as easily carried away by current. Bigger than play sand size is what I look for.

    2. I live in minnesota and there's stores around like home depot.

    3. Snails are fine on sand. You can sometimes see grains stick to their slime trail.

    4. I have read that changing substrate can send a tank into cycle stage again. Some people say they avoid this by slowing changing the substrate, one side or part of the tank at a time and then wait and repeat.

    *Maintenance on sand is hovering over the sand to collect debri and poo. Once in awhile the sand should be %26quot;turned%26quot; to prevent nasty pockets of gas. Debris starts to decay in anaerobic conditions beneath the sand and it can stink. It's said to be toxic to fish if it builds up.



    ps - Dempsey's are found in areas where sand is...http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jack_Dempse

    How to bleed a 1997 ford taurus cooling system?

    ok i just changed the water pump on my 1997 ford taurus the water pump impellers were completely rusted away and we filled the system with water so we could flush everything out of the system and we cant seem to find a bleeder screw anywhere on the engine also there is no way to fit up the radiator seperatly we have to dump everything in the coolant recovery tank we jacked up the front of the car and started it but we are still afraid of air bubbles in the system.How to bleed a 1997 ford taurus cooling system?that is a self bleeding system. after draining the radiator and closeing back up just put in a gal of pure antifreeze and then a gal of water do it slow then start the car and turn on the heat all the way up and finish up with pure antifreeze, as it burps itself it will let any extra out the cap. that car is designed that way.How to bleed a 1997 ford taurus cooling system?there's usually 5 bleeder screws:



    2 on the left side of the block, near the bottom

    2 on the right side of the block, also near the bottom

    1 on the radiator, on the bottom usually on the right side.



    Don't worry about bubbles and make sure to run the engine once you have it filled with the water to engage the cleaning process. Make sure you use Prestone Cooling System cleaner or a similar product!

    How would you change the running direction of a Universal motor running on AC?

    i salvaged a 1.6kw motor from a vacuum cleaner-wishing to make it into a blower but i want to use the impeller as a propeller, i can do this by changing the running direction of the motor.

    however i do not know how to do this-there are two wires leading to the motor brown and blue these wires are also connected to a capacitor in Parallel they lead straight from the plug.

    i have tried disconnecting the capacitor to see if i can hand start the motor in the opposite direction-however even when the capacitor is disconnected the motor still runs in the same direction

    there are no more wires coming out of the motor and the 2 brushes are connected to the field wires(the electromagnets around the armature)- can the direction of the motor be changedHow would you change the running direction of a Universal motor running on AC?You would need to reverse the direction of the current through the armature windings relative to the direction of flow through the field windings. The easiest way would be to swap the two wires going to the brushes, but I'd bet that they won't reach without extending them somehow.



    There may be mechanical difficulties though. For example the impeller might be screwed on to the end of the motor shaft with the thing designed so that the screw tightens when the motor rotates in the designed direction, but will loosen itself going the wrong way.



    I wouldn't operate it without the capacitor, it sounds like a spark/ interference suppressor.



    Please be careful. It sounds like a machine with the capability to do you a fair bit of damage one way or another.How would you change the running direction of a Universal motor running on AC?Only by reversing the direction the current runs to the field windings relative to the armature. Reversible universal motors are commonly used on ac powered toy trains, most famously those by Lionel.



    This may be a fools errand: I do not see that reversing the direction of rotation of the impeller is going to accomplish what you want to do: Most impellers are unidirectional, they work poorly, if at all, when rotated in the wrong direction. You should instead concentrate on how to arrange the duct-work so that the impeller moves the air as you desire in its present configuration.How would you change the running direction of a Universal motor running on AC?To chsangr yhe direction of your motor,just interchange connection of your blue wire from capacitor terminal to its common junction
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